The Ultimate Guide to Garment Alterations (2024)

Set: a smooth fit of garments free from wrinkles and draglines

• Draglines often occur when a garment does not fit properly.

Draglines: an issue that indicates that there’s not enough fabric in the area where the fabric is being pulled too tightly

• Note that RTW (ready to wear) clothing and sewing patterns do not follow the same sizing charts. Commercial patterns are typically bigger than RTW sizes, so be sure to double check your measurements.
• When choosing a pattern size: if you’re between sizes choose the larger size; it’s easier to take in then to add.
• Learn what good fit looks like (refer to our fit guide!)
• Pin pattern pieces accordingly and try them on so adjustments can be made from there
• Make a prototype from muslin!!!
• Take the following measurements, keeping ease in mind:

Top Too Tight at Chest

Problem: Drags appear at chest level

Solution: Widen side where side seam and the lower armhole meet

Armhole Drop is too High

Problem: Drag appears from under the arms

Solution: Extend the armscye drop accordingly, starting from the bottom of the armhole to about midway through

Armhole Scoop too Shallow

Problem: Drags appear from lower armholes

Solution: Leave each corner of armhole as is and deepen the armscye scoop

Neck Drop is too High

Problem: Neckline is too high or not wide enough

Solution: Widen the length of the neckline and/or make a deeper neckline scoop

Blouse Bottom is too Wide

Problem: The blouse is protruding from the body at hips

Solution: Bring in side-seam at the hip area

Bunching at Crotch

Problem: Bottoms are too loose around the crotch area

Solution: Deepen Inseam and gradually take in the upper portion of the outseam

Back rise is too Long or Short

Problem: Waistband is being pulled down at back or there is bunching from the backside.

Solution: Create an adjustment line perpendicular to the grainline, slide the cut piece accordingly, attach pattern pieces with tape then redraw lines as needed

Bunching at the Back

Problem: Back rise is too shallow

Solution: The inseam at back needs to be scooped out in order to allow the seam to sit properly at its back

The waistband is folding, marks appear around hips, or you can’t sit comfortably in your bottoms

Problem: waist of bottoms is too tight

Solution: Increase waist at the side seam and readjust rise depth as needed, allowing the pant can drop down.